National Archaeological Museum and Athens in the sun!

Friday October 3 was a beautiful sunny day with a high of 21C. What a change from the Thursday rain.

Morning view from our balcony in the sun!

Looking up the street from our balcony. Antonis calls this "balcony street"

Great graffiti- Bo Bo--- hope he's better for the playoffs

We headed out to the National Archaeological Museum for our 11:00 a.m. timed ticket entry. There was no line and we walked right in. The Museum is the largest archaeological museum in Greece and one of the most important museums in the world devoted to Ancient Greek art. It was founded in 1829, though its iconic building was not completed until 1889. It houses artefacts spanning from the Neolithic period to Late Antiquity. During WWII, the museum was closed and the antiquities were sealed in special protective boxes and buried in order to avoid their destruction and looting.

Outside of the Museum

The prehistoric collection displays objects from the Neolithic era (6800-3000 BC); Early and Mid-Bronze Age (3000-2000 BC and 2000 to 1700 BC); objects classified as Cycladic and Mycenaean art.

Head of a Cycladic statue: sculpted nose, mouth and ears. Found on Amorgos, Early Cycladic II period, 2800-2300 BC.

Clay 'frying pan' with incised decoration. From Syros, Early Cycladic II period (2800-2300 BC)

Funerary stele made of porous stone with relief chariot scene. Mycenae, Grave Circle A 16th century, BC

Large pitcher from Orchomenos in Boeotia (Early Bronze Age, middle of the 3rd millennium BC)

Early Cycladic III, 2300-2800 BC. Marble carving.

The 'harpist of Keros'; seated in an elegant throne. Early Cycladic II, 2800-2300 BC

Painted pottery from Early Cycladic III (2300-2000 BC). Painted vases are luxurious items projecting status in social and ritual contexts. These look so modern!

Unique zoomorphic clay vase, hollow inside. It has been characterised as 'bear',
but is probably a hedgehog.

Large figure is a marble female figurine with arms folded under the breasts. The belly is slightly swollen indicating a state of pregnancy.

From Lefkas, Ionian Sea

Storage jar decorated with black painted geometric motifs. Middle Bronze Age (2000-1600 BC)

Finds from Grave V, Grave Circle A, Mycenae, 16th century BC. Gold death-mask, known as the 'mask of Agamemnon'. The mask depicts the imposing face of a bearded man. It is made of a gold sheet with repoussé details. Two holes near the ears indicate that the mask was held in place over the deceased's face with twine. The item below is a gold funerary breastplate, reminiscent of the luxurious Pharaonic Egyptian burials, where mummified bodies were covered entirely with gold.

Grave III, ('Grave of the Women') Grave Circle A, Mycenae 16th century BC

Wall-paintings from the Acropolis of Mycenae. 13th century BC. The 'Mycenaean Lady'. "The serious and pensive expression of the goddess reveals the solemnity of the moment as she accepts, slightly smiling, the gift, a necklace, which she holds tightly in her right hand. She has an intricate hairstyle and her jewellery is very striking".

Part of the 'Acropolis treasure' from Mycenae comprises a hoard of precious grave gifts looted from tombs and hidden in antiquity. It was recovered from outside the enclosure of Grave Circle A in 1876. These objects date to the end of the 15th century BC.

The Tiryns wall-paintings (14-13th centuries BC). Large-scale wall-paintings usually represented religious ceremonies and hunting scenes. The influence of Minoan Crete was evident in ritual bull-leaping scenes.

Ivory figurine representing two seated bare-breasted female deities and a child leaning on their knees. A masterpiece of Mycenaean art. Mycenae Acropolis, palace area. 15-14th centuries BC.

Fragment of a large krater with representation of a two-horse chariot with two riders. Two men holding spears and circular shields walk in front of the chariot, while a dog scampers under the horse. The style of the figures are characteristic of the so-called 'painter of the shield-bearers' of the Tiryns workshop producing pictorial pottery. Late 13th-early 12 centuries BC.

Gold signet ring, the largest extant Mycenaean ring. 15th century BC

Statue of Aphrodite. Found at Baiai in southern Italy. Version made in the 2nd c. AD

Statuette of Nike. Late 4th c. BC

Funerary lekythos. 350-325 BC

Funerary naiskos. Found in the ancient cemetery of the Kerameikos, Athens. A young Athenian warrior with full military equipment is depicted on the field of battle. 350-325 BC.

Group of Aphrodite, Pan and Eros. About 100 BC.

Statue of a woman wearing a peplos. Found in Athens.
Funerary statue echoing earlier originals, 1st c. BC

There was a room with a small exhibition entitled: Hadrian and Athens: Conversing with an Ideal World. The occasion for the exhibition was that it was 1900 years since the Roman Emperor ascended the throne (117-138 AD). Hadrian was very well educated and had a Greek education. and developed strong ties with Athens.

Lots of Greek intellectuals

Portrait bus of Antinoos. A favourite of the emperor Hadrian. 130-138 AD.

There were some beautiful frescos on the second floor. The Spring fresco is the only wall-painting of Akrotiri that was found in situ, covering three walls of the same room.

The Spring Fresco- 16th century BC

Funerary loutrophoros. Around 340 BC

The Museum's collection was spectacular. We spent about 1.5 hours at the Museum. It was a bit overwhelming. We especially liked the Cycladic pieces and the many pieces of pottery and jewellery that looked very modern. There was a lot of spectacular engraving presented. After our visit, we went to see their café, which Antonis said was in a beautiful setting. It was indeed. It is a hidden oasis with a sunny garden, ancient statues and art displays.

Museum's beautiful garden-patio café

Very nice setting for a coffee

We left the museum and headed to the Central Market area. We stopped at Loumidis Coffeeshop, which has been in operation since 1920. The flagship store was beautiful, offering coffee, Greek sweets and lots of gourmet items.

Outside of Loumidis Coffee Shop

Gorgeous interior

Allan with Legit coffee beans

We continued our walk to Mokka Coffeeshop near the Central Market.

Passing a rack of "Ha-Ha" socks, a takeoff on the Swedish brand "Happy Socks" (one of Allan's favourites). No purchases were made, but we had a chuckle.

City Hall and the pigeons

We stopped at Mokka, an historic coffee house and roastery housed in a 19th century building since 1922, where I had my first freddo espresso of the trip. We shared a portion of sheep yoghurt with honey and their famous spooned fruit (we had cherry). We had been to Mokka in 2017 and again this past May.

Warm enough for my first freddo espresso!

Allan with the coffee drinks. He had a flat white.

Excellent yoghurt with honey and cherry spoon fruit.

We did a turn through the fish section of the Central Market which opened in 1884. The cost of construction was covered by a donation from benefactor (and caviar importer) Ioannis Varvakis, who gave the market its Greek name -Varvakios Agora. The centre of the building houses the fish market- the largest fresh fish market in Europe. About five to ten tons of fresh fish arrive here daily, most of it from the Greek islands like Naxos, Paros and Syros.

Beautiful fish

Row after row of fish vendors

It was time for a souvlaki at Volvi, also located in the Market. We had eaten there in May.

Outside of Volvi Souvlaki

Allan gives the souvlaki thumbs up.

We walked by a very interesting bookstore, café.

Kaktos

"I have measured out my life with coffee spoons"- T.S. Eliot

We stopped in at Naxos Apothecary-- beautiful five story building with lots of Greek cosmetics and fragrances; books; and shoes.

National Historical Museum established in 1882. Since 2001, it has operated in the Old Parliament House which housed the Hellenic Parliament from 1875 to 1932.

Back in our 'hood-- graffiti rules

After a rest, we headed to dinner at Ama Lachei. The restaurant is located in a former elementary school property. It has a huge, leafy courtyard, which was once the local school's playground. (In winter, the former classrooms become dining rooms). The outdoor section is adorned with lemon trees, jasmine and bougainvillea. Ama Lachei specialises in modern Greek and Mediterranean cuisine, with a particular focus on meze. It has a creative mix of traditional and contemporary dishes, prepared with fresh, high-quality ingredients.

Gorgeous garden seating

Menu cover

Allan and the first maze

Mashed yellow split peas with lemon and caper jam, with dried nuts and fresh onion--
the portions are huge!

Grilled sardines with white wine, cherry tomatoes and capers, with green pepper, garlic oil, lemon, oregano and chilli flakes--- superb

Our third dish was a plate of mini-hamburgers and potatoes with yoghurt and lemon sauces. I forgot to take a photo but it was very filling. We had two complimentary shots of raki at the end of the meal.

Highly recommend this restaurant.